DIY pool fencing installation instructions

(1) The first thing to do.
Set up a string line. Knock pegs in 300mm past where you want the fence to begin and end, so as to be out of the way of your first and last hole when you come to dig it, and run a string line between them. Be sure to pull the string line tight to ensure that it does not bend in the breeze. As the fence is built, all the posts will be levelled vertically against your string line. Ensure that as you go your posts are kept at least 1mm off your string line. If you allow the posts to touch the string line, it will not remain straight and you will end up with a bent fence line!!! If your fence starts at a building, you will just have to put your string line peg as close to the start as you can, and sight by eye where your first post needs to go OR install your wall post first and then run your string line from the side of your wall post.
Level ground.
If your site is level you can also use your string line as a helpful guide to keeping your fence level horizontally. Set your string line up at approx 70mm ( Max =100mm) above ground level. Make sure your string line is level and that it is not sagging. For stretches over 20m you may need some small pegs, to lift up any sagging that may occur in the string line. Put a mark 1200mm (1210mm for Flat top designs, as the post needs to be 10mm above the top of the panel.) down from the top of the posts, to indicate where the bottom of the fence will be. This mark on the post should line up with your level string line. It is also very helpful to sight by eye along the the top of the fence posts as you install them, to double check that they are in line and level.
WHAT IF YOUR GROUND SLOPES MORE THAN 100MM PER PANEL?
Solution 1: It is possible by using Flat top panels to be able to step panels up to 250mm. This is possible because the of the distance between the top and bottom rails, BUT THIS WOULD ONLY BE ALLOWABLE, IF A SLEEPER (OR SOMETHING SIMILAR) IS FIXED INTO PLACE UNDER THE FENCE, SO THERE IS NO GAP. Be sure to check with your local council before you do this.
Solution 2: By cutting panels in half and using an extra post and fittings set, you can step 100mm every 1240mm (being the length of half a panel). This effectively means that you can legally achieve a 200mm drop over the length of one panel.
Solution 3: Order custom made panels constructed to follow the exact slope of the ground. Unless you know what you are doing, you will need a professional to come to your site and take exact measurements. Custom made panels can be costly.
(2) The second thing to.
Decide where to start. If the ground is sloping, always start at the highest point and work down. If the fence is to join onto a building, then it is always best to start at the building and work away. If however the ground is sloping down towards the building, it will be better to work towards the building. If you want this section of fencing to be made up of full panels, you will need to determine the exact distance away from the building, where you will start your fence. This distance is determined by adding the length of the panels and posts together, not forgetting that you will need as many posts as panels plus one extra post, to complete a section of fencing. Most times you will find that your ground is sloping, even if it is ever so slight. This means that as you go down your sloping fence line, the panels will need to step a little. It is important to note at this stage that your fence should not step more than 100mm from panel to panel, and also that your gap under the fence should be no more than 100mm. The best way to step panels, is to step a little after each panel, and to try and keep your steps consistent and even, as you make your way down the fence line. (E.g.- If the ground drops away 100mm over 5 panels, it would be better to drop each panel 20mm, rather than installing them level and having a big step down of 100mm after the fifth panel.)
(3) It’s now time to dig your first two holes.
Determine the distance between your posts with a spacing stick or tape measure.The distance between posts will be the panel width of 2475mm, or you may simply hold a panel in place as a gauge, to determine the distance. Because the posts are 50mm wide the center of the post hole to be dug will be 25mm past each end of the panel and 25mm off your string line. If you mark this spot with a peg, you can then push the string line aside and peg it back out of the way, while you dig your holes at 100mm radius around your marker peg. This will give you a 200mm diameter hole, and your post should be perfectly centred in the hole, giving an even amount of concrete all around when finished. Dig holes 550mm deep as a minimum.
(4) Now it’s time to prepare your panel ready to stand.
The first panel you install to begin the fence line, will need a post attached to each end of the panel. The easiest way, is to first screw (Warning- you must not drill screws in too fast or with too much pressure or you will strip the thread into the aluminum- using a battery drill is ideal.) the top rail fence connecting bracket to each post. This should be positioned so that the top of the post will line through with the top of the panel. Then with the panel lying on the ground, slide the connecting bracket with the attached post over the top rail of the fence. Having done that, you will have no trouble attaching the bottom connecting brackets to the post, with the bottom rail of the fence to guide you to exactly where it should go. Be sure to drill a teck screw up through the fence connecting bracket into the top rail of the fence, and down through the fence connecting bracke, into the bottom rail of the fence, to secure the post to the panel. It is now ready to stand in place. This process will be repeated for the remaining panels, except each panel will only need one post attached before you stand it.
(5) Preparing your concrete.
Buy pre-mixed concrete or mix your own. If mixing your own, a good mix would be; 6 shovels of sand, 6 shovels of blue metal gravel ( If possible, replace 3 shovels of blue metal with 3 shovels of metal dust. This will make a quick drying mix which also will ram tight better!!!) and 3 shovels of cement. Mix well, then add water, but make sure to make a super dry mix, only just moist, which will be able to be rammed tight around the post.
(6) So let’s do it.
Place the panel with the two posts attached into the holes. First level the panel horizontally ensuring you have the correct gap under the fence. You cannot have more than 100mm - an ideal gap is 70mm. Remember, if the ground is sloping the bottom of the fence will be closer to the ground on the high side. Level panel and adjust gap under fence by placing your slightly wet concrete mix on the bottom of the hole, and ramming hard with a block of wood or crowbar. If you have any trouble using this method, then wooden blocks can be placed under the fence to help hold it in position. Once you have leveled your panel horizontally, with the posts resting on the concrete in the bottom of the hole, it is time to half fill the hole with the same concrete, gently ramming in and levelling vertically against the string line as you go. (At any stage a normal mix of concrete can be made to finish off the rest of the hole.) You shouldn’t need any props, the panels are not heavy and the concrete should easily hold them upright.
(7) Installing the panels.
From now on it is a matter of repeating the process down the line (until you come to the gate) - mark with spacing stick, tape measure or panel, dig hole, attach one post to a panel, slide fence connecting brackets onto other end of panel before lifting into place, lift panel into place, level horizontally, ensure the gap under is correct and similar to the last panel, then screw fence connecting brackets to the post of the previous panel just installed.
(8) Installing the gate.
If the gate needs to be installed in an exact spot, e.g. to go over a foot path, you may need to cut a panel, otherwise install your gate after a full panel, wherever possible. All pool gates must open out, but which side they swing from is up to you. The gate hinges, attach onto a normal fence post, but the Pool Safety Latch must be mounted on an extra long post. Which panel has the latch post screwed to it, will depend on what side the gate is going to hinge from. Keep this in mind when installing the panels each side of the gate. From the ground to the top of the latch must be a minimum of 1500mm. When attaching the latch post to the panel, make sure that it is 300mm above the top of the panel. It is important to ensure that your gate posts are level and that the gap between your gate posts is between 1000mm and 1005mm for a 970mm wide gate. The first panel after the gate opening, will have two posts screwed to it. It can then be stood and levelled into place, as you did for the very first panel. Double check that the gate opening is between 30 to 35mm wider than the width of your gate. When you are confident that this is the case, continue building your fence to the end. When you have finished installing the fence, check that it is all level and in line. Especially double check the gate posts, that they are still level before the concrete sets. Installing the actual gate should be left until last or until the next day. Screw hinges onto the gate frame first, as low and as high on the gate as possible, ensuring that they are on the outside to allow the gate to open out. The spring loaded hinge should be installed on the bottom of the gate. Then lift the gate with hinges attached into the gate opening, and after checking that the hinges are hard against the fence post and that the gate is at the correct height, screw hinges to the post. Finally install easy fit safety latch as per instructions provided.
Finally
I have endeavored to make these instructions as detailed and clear as possible, but it is impossible to cover every situation. You should not install your fence before getting a copy of your local council pool fencing requirements, and if you are unsure about anything, ring your local council and make sure that what you are going to do will meet their approval. It is your responsibility to ensure your fence is installed to council requirements.